Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city is no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
